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Hi
I deserve my place on this forum because Ive had an 8000T for countless years still in mint condition
It may be getting a custom job with a 160gb hard drive I have from a 9200I have a new HDR 2000T and I cant see that the hard drive twittering or rasping every 6 seconds is within acceptable design parameters for this unit.
I also see a long history of returning them and I was first duped with a used unit bunged in a box before immediatly demanding a new packaged unit which still may be a refurb unit as I can see just a hit of feet marks on the top panel. It dampens my enthusiasm.
I know what the hard drive is doing but I feel its obtrusive when the telly in on low. I can even hear it during quiet passages when Ive got my PX100 headphones on.
Its a home unit and nobody really has the telly on full blast to drown that out all the time. My television is currently wired to Creative T20 speakers either side but at reasonable volume I can hear that hard drive twittering away
I think Im going to contact Humax and start a new thread here.
Can anyone tell me please if the hard drive can be swapped for a better unit?
In my mind a hard drive shouldnt be making this kind of noise for this application. Its like the sort of noise a game console disc reader makes when reading heavy information.
I dont feel its acceptable on pvr. Its a shame because otherwise the picture, features and sound are lovely.
Im technically minded but may have to return this. I dont want to return it but surely this noise isnt right.
Im having my questions answered on other threads as Im on about six threads concerning the 2000T
I have decised to keep it as its recording beautifully. I have Verdis Requiem on at the moment recorded from BBC 4 HD.
I do have the headphones on
and its sounding lovely.I can live with this box and it may get a custom refit further down the line
I returned the first 2000T about a year ago as the hard drive made a chuntering sound. The replacement was not much different.
As a recorder it works fine with a lot of storage. I also use a dongle to access i>Player and YouTube from the Virgin cable TV in the other room.
However it won’t play some YouTube videos for “copyright reasons,” and occasionally when accessing i>Player it#ll turn itself off.
My biggest gripe is losing all my planned recordings when installing new channels.
Humax have sent an email reply saying change it if not satisfied…along the lines of it shouldnt be noisy.
However it doesnt clarify if Im actually going to get a quieter unit.
I believe they think its within acceptable parameters and we will have out tvs on loud enough through speaker systems.
Ive listened to the hard drive tonight and it almost echos as the noise is so loud and sharp…its just loud…no ifs no buts…. just loud for hard drive head moving.
I feel in the awkward situation where if I had a selection of units to compare, the loudest one would be going back.
I dont so Im going to keep this unit for now. Im going to look an absolute fool if I get another unit and its just as loud
Minstrel SE – 1 hour ago »
Humax have sent an email reply saying change it if not satisfied…along the lines of it shouldnt be noisy.
However it doesnt clarify if Im actually going to get a quieter unit.
I believe they think its within acceptable parameters and we will have out tvs on loud enough through speaker systems.
Ive listened to the hard drive tonight and it almost echos as the noise is so loud and sharp…its just loud…no ifs no buts…. just loud for hard drive head moving.
I feel in the awkward situation where if I had a selection of units to compare, the loudest one would be going back.
I dont so Im going to keep this unit for now. Im going to look an absolute fool if I get another unit and its just as loud
I think the real issue here is we all hear and see the world differently so what could be a definite issue for you e.g. the noisy HDD could be an issue that I for instance might not even be able to hear.
I well remember a friend of mine dragging me round to his house a couple of years ago when Apple were allegedly having issues with a yellow tint on their 27″ iMac screens. I didn’t think dragging me round was a particularly good idea as I’m someone who struggles to see much difference between SD and HD transmissions.
Sure enough the Mac screen looked snow white to me, not a sign of a yellow tint.What I’m trying to say is at the end of the day only you can decide whether to swap the unit out for another box. I had our 2000T switched on this afternoon, no TV on and no other noise and sure enough – bong rasp, bong rasp, bong rasp goes the HDD. It’s not particularly loud, but loud enough that I can hear it.
I bought a 2000T a few months ago, and I am shocked at the noise it makes.
I got fed up with the noise so I’ve had the lid off, there is no isolation for the hard disk which is bolted directly to a semi rigid lump of black plastic, which is bolted directly to the case.
The hard drive is a Seagate Video 3.5 HDD (ST500VM000) which the specifications online say produces 1.9 to 2.1 bels at idle (typical to max) and 2.1 to 2.3 bels seeking (typical to max) – I.E. 21dB at the most, inside a box.
Bearing in mind the guarantee seal has to be broken to get the top off..
I used some thin (about 1.5mm) “sticky fixers” foam pads as washers between the “lump of black plastic” at the four points the hard disk is fastened to it, and the four points the lump is fastened to the HDR’s casing.
On reassembly the bolts were barely tightened – just enough to stop things moving about.
At the point of replacing the lid I noticed the SATA lead from the hard disk was pressing quite firmly on the lid, so I stuck a pad on the lead to isolate it from the lid.
The HDR is significantly quieter and now it doesn’t bother anyone in the room, apart from when it powers up and there is a 15 second loss of RF loop through…
I’m sure a proper isolating kit would be a better job, but for a few pence this works for me, your mileage may vary.
Johnh510 – 6 minutes ago »
I bought a 2000T a few months ago, and I am shocked at the noise it makes.
I got fed up with the noise so I’ve had the lid off, there is no isolation for the hard disk which is bolted directly to a semi rigid lump of black plastic, which is bolted directly to the case.
The hard drive is a Seagate Video 3.5 HDD (ST500VM000) which the specifications online say produces 1.9 to 2.1 bels at idle (typical to max) and 2.1 to 2.3 bels seeking (typical to max) – I.E. 21dB at the most, inside a box.
Bearing in mind the guarantee seal has to be broken to get the top off..
I used some thin (about 1.5mm) “sticky fixers” foam pads as washers between the “lump of black plastic” at the four points the hard disk is fastened to it, and the four points the lump is fastened to the HDR’s casing.
On reassembly the bolts were barely tightened – just enough to stop things moving about.
At the point of replacing the lid I noticed the SATA lead from the hard disk was pressing quite firmly on the lid, so I stuck a pad on the lead to isolate it from the lid.
The HDR is significantly quieter and now it doesn’t bother anyone in the room, apart from when it powers up and there is a 15 second loss of RF loop through…
I’m sure a proper isolating kit would be a better job, but for a few pence this works for me, your mileage may vary.
One of these will fix your loss of rf loop through when the box wakes to make a recording.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/labgear-19132r-s-2-way-metal-t-splitter/44534
Thanks for that – I’ll find out if I have enough signal strength…
£1.49 is worth a try.
Johnh510 – 24 minutes ago »
Thanks for that – I’ll find out if I have enough signal strength…
£1.49 is worth a try.
If you don’t, you must have a signal level very close to the digital cliff. Don’t forget to turn power saving in sby back on. You might as well save some money
Yes this was my first thread and I’m more shocked at my typos and poor wording than anything
Erm yes Johnh510, I did a similar project to reduce the noise and voided my extended guarantee which would have lasted until September 2018. Luckily the unit is still working ok. I damped the hard drive mounting using rubber and metal washers in a sandwich ( the ridiculous recessed hole mount of the shelf made that harder to do) added extra noise shielding and lined the casing while considering any heat build up issues
There is a thread of mine somewhere with pictures but Photobucket will have voided them now.
The Later version of the 2000T removed all the shielding,damping and the fan. It was so basic inside that its no wonder it had noise issues. Enough people noticed it and Humax cut too many design corners.
Some people say their unit is quiet but I was sold a pup and it should have gone back really. Im still miffed at the poor Humax customer service and my confusion at the time. I will also never deal with that warehouse store again who initially tried to do me over causing confusion and anxiety.
I fixed the issue to an acceptable noise level…something I shouldnt have had to do
grahamlthompson – 2 days ago »
Johnh510 – 24 minutes ago »
Thanks for that – I’ll find out if I have enough signal strength…
£1.49 is worth a try.
If you don’t, you must have a signal level very close to the digital cliff. Don’t forget to turn power saving in sby back on. You might as well save some money
I have to confess Graham that since some of the channels have moved to COM 7 and 8 I have had to revert to pass-through for my Youview entertainment. Earlier in the week COM 7 and 8 kept dropping out momentarily e.g 60% S & Q then 0% quick as a flash. Today they are now a steady 90% S and 100% Q. Never had it before but I’m finding these two frequencies are very weather dependant, not actually wet or dry etc. but more High and Low pressure.
Using the splitter just tipped things over the ‘digital cliff’. I noticed a number of people posting on ‘down detector’ about the same issue.
The weather dependence is no doubt due to adjacent transmissions now using the same frequencies for COM 7 and COM 8. High Pressure uplift conditions would seem to be pushing you into the so called mush zone where the multi transmitter reception knocks out your reception.
You must be really close to the edge, the loop amplifier doesn’t have much gain.
A low noise adjustable gain masthead amp by the aerial where it doesn’t amplify noise picked up in the coax download is likely to be a better option.
grahamlthompson – 9 minutes ago »
The weather dependence is no doubt due to adjacent transmissions now using the same frequencies for COM 7 and COM 8. High Pressure uplift conditions would seem to be pushing you into the so called mush zone where the multi transmitter reception knocks out your reception.
You must be really close to the edge, the loop amplifier doesn’t have much gain.
A low noise adjustable gain masthead amp by the aerial where it doesn’t amplify noise picked up in the coax download is likely to be a better option.
Probably not worth the effort for the time Freeview will be using these two frequencies. As you know we can use Fenton or Sutton Coldfield, though Fenton is just repeating the SC signal albeit V instead of H.
We don’t have any channels in the 800s though. I have noticed however when doing a retune the TV will still attempt to pick up muxes in the 20s numbers (Fenton) though drops them again.
I was in Screwfix this morning and got the metal “Labgear” splitter, mentioned way up the thread by Graham.
It seemed like a plan, but the gender of the connectors for in/out/out is m/f/f, which is exactly the opposite of what seems to be needed for a direct plug and go: f/m/m.
Even ignoring the paths through the splitter – which probably isn’t the best idea – I still end up with two female connectors looking at one another: splitter out to lead to TV.
It seems the splitter wasn’t intended to be used around the back of a Humax.
I will probably end up with a pair of short male/male leads, and a female “barrel” to connect it all together as per the in/out labels (as I can’t find a screened splitter with the right gender connectors online), but it’s a shame to have so many joints especially as the aerial lead is one piece from the loft to the back of the first pvr.Found a metal cased one, according to Amazon/Solent cables £1.77
Will post back in a few days
Johnh510 – 59 minutes ago »
I was in Screwfix this morning and got the metal “Labgear” splitter, mentioned way up the thread by Graham.
It seemed like a plan, but the gender of the connectors for in/out/out is m/f/f, which is exactly the opposite of what seems to be needed for a direct plug and go: f/m/m.
Even ignoring the paths through the splitter – which probably isn’t the best idea – I still end up with two female connectors looking at one another: splitter out to lead to TV.
It seems the splitter wasn’t intended to be used around the back of a Humax.
I will probably end up with a pair of short male/male leads, and a female “barrel” to connect it all together as per the in/out labels (as I can’t find a screened splitter with the right gender connectors online), but it’s a shame to have so many joints especially as the aerial lead is one piece from the loft to the back of the first pvr.Found a metal cased one, according to Amazon/Solent cables £1.77
Will post back in a few days
Should be the right way round – One Female input and two Male outputs.
The inputs on most boxes are male for the inputs and female for the outputs. The aerial cable should connect to the input and the existing patch lead should connect one splitter output to the Humax in socket and a second to connect the TV. Patch leads have a male at one end and a female at the other end. The two females connect to the two outputs of the splitter with the other ends going to the TV and Humax in sockets.
A simple coupler will change the gender.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/labgear-plastic-coax-couplers-pack-of-10/26904#_=p
Are you mixing up the one input with one of the outputs ?
Looking at the picture the input would appear to be the right hand one which you can’t see the gender of.
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