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chrisdaniels – 6 minutes ago »
I like to live life on the edge lol
But you were giving advice to someone else.
Yes and I stand by it. It’s not going to ruin the disk if you turn it off unless you are very unlucky or you’ve been doing it for years while the disk is writing every time.
chrisdaniels – 4 hours ago »
I would change your IR switch to use the TV as the source instead and take the humax out of the loop.
That way you can leave the humax powered on so it can do overnight recordings and you can see the status, but everything else switches off.
T2000 is powered on but in standby (so theoretically consuming less than half a watt), when I hit the remote to take it out of standby, the rest of the kit (eg tv, surround sound) gets power, but is still in standby, so then I can use the other remotes to switch all those bits on
Regarding seeing the status, well you can’t, cause it may or may not be actually recording in standby with the red light on…
That’s why I said in my scenario you would leave the humax on all the time so you could see the status and everything apart from your humax would power up/down when you turn the tv on/off instead.
Note that watt meters are often not accurate below a certain figure, for mine it is around 70W according to the manual for it. I run a 100W bulb on a table lamp plus whatever I’m trying to measure. And make sure it’s a traditional incandescent lamp, flourescents don’t have a 1.0 power factor due to the switched mode power supply in new ones which skews the reading (as does any set top box). Measuring power consumption is a minefield, assume any reading is wildly inaccurate until proven otherwise.
Well one of the reasons I bought this one not YouView version was so as not to be permanently consuming 16watts of power all the time. So not having it in standby rather defeats the object, plus I think it automatically switches to standby after some period of inactivity…
Speaking of which the digital clock screen saver that cuts in when you leave it paused is a neat feature…
Owen Smith – 6 minutes ago »
Note that watt meters are often not accurate below a certain figure, for mine it is around 70W according to the manual for it. I run a 100W bulb on a table lamp plus whatever I’m trying to measure. And make sure it’s a traditional incandescent lamp, flourescents don’t have a 1.0 power factor due to the switched mode power supply in new ones which skews the reading (as does any set top box). Measuring power consumption is a minefield, assume any reading is wildly inaccurate until proven otherwise.
Sounds like a plan, but jeeze don’t fings get complicated quickly…
If all else fails- read the instructions – don’t remember mine mentioning anything about accuracy of the metering
CornishLad – 5 minutes ago » Sounds like a plan, but jeeze don’t fings get complicated quickly…
If all else fails- read the instructions – don’t remember mine mentioning anything about accuracy of the metering
So if your watt meter says nothing about the accuracy, you have no idea what it is and should assume that it is terrible.
If you bought the humax for that reason then yes your reasoning makes sense.
Ps. You can change the standby time in the settings so it can be disabled if it’s the same as the HDR t2.
I found it annoying when for example watching one channel for an evening without having to touch the remote that it would pop up a message saying it will go into standby unless you pressed no.
I agree with Owen,
my power meter, bought a few years ago, isn’t guaranteed below 40w so plugging in a 60w or 100w bulb first and adding whatever it is to measure makes a lot of sense on low power devices.
We also need to be aware of accuracy and resolution, my scales may resolve down to 1g, but if they’re 5% or 10% accurate then that’s a different picture, i.e. they’ll give me an exact figure that may not be accurate.
Personally I leave my Humax’s left plugged in all the time, pulling the plug on a drive can leave the head left on a disk and not parked, which it will be if shut down correctly, there’ll definitely be files left open for writing and, yes, file system checking on startup should sort out open files.
I only switch off at the mains if it’s shutdown or when I’m forced to if it’s frozen.
We should all live on the edge every now and again; however we need informed decisions and not tempting fate. I might drive at 100mph on a motorway in the middle of the night with no traffic, but sooner or later I’ll get caught out.
Back to the box though, it would have cost pennies to put an extra LED in for recording and even less for a tri-colour LED
damian – 12 hours ago » Back to the box though, it would have cost pennies to put an extra LED in for recording and even less for a tri-colour LED
I know, what the hell were they thinking? Dumb move Humax.
The box will surely work like the earlier box. If the box is recording or in pre-recording sby then pressing the off button will only return the box to full sby when recording activity is complete, as it does when waking from sby. Same applies if you turn off the box using the box power button when a bulk delete is underway, it will only go into full sby when all the deletes are processed. Of course you should not power off the mains when the box is operating. If you are really paranoid stick a usb powered light into one of the ports to see if the box is active. I use a cable with built in lights.
My earlier suggestion was that as the blue/red led(s) are presumably controlled by the firmware then tweaking the mark space ratio of the two colours would produce the appearance of different shades of whatever you get from different amounts of red and blue light
So no extra hardware needed…
My Watt-O-Meter is digital, and doesn’t display watts with any decimal places, so the precision is +/- .5w, for a “properly” designed instrument the accuracy should be at least as great as the precision, but who knows…
Folks, Homebase are doing 15% off everything this weekend and the HDR2000T can be had for £156.94 delivered!
Use code DISCOUNT15 in checkout.
Link to above on Homebase website as it is listed under Set top boxes and not Digital recorders
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