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My HDR-1010S has now lost contact with its disk. It happened during playback yesterday. After trying the usual reboots and power cycles, I removed the disk and connected it to the USB. It sees the disk but only offers the options to remove or to format, so I can’t play anything from it.
I checked the capacitors, and found a slightly out of spec (ESR) 220uF @ 16V near the disk power connector on the MB. I changed it, but still no disk.
I’m dubious about the resistor rumour; I think it’s more likely to be an unleaded solder failure, probably under the main chip which will suffer constant heat cycling.
I’ll persevere for a while and report back if I find a solution.
I think I may have found the problem, but I haven’t fixed it yet. About 4cm directly behind the scart, there’s a buck regulator, which I think should be providing 1.2V, but it’s below 1V. I get a reading of about 15 ohms across its output. I’ve checked the corresponding circuit on a DTR-1000 and that measures about 150 ohms. There are 6 capacitors of varying values in parallel across the output, so I removed each one and checked it, but all were OK. I then removed the switching MOSFET, but that was OK too. This leaves the buck chip itself, which I don’t feel confident about removing, and the following circuitry (I haven’t yet worked out where it goes, probably somewhere on the main processor).
I contacted Humax to see if I could get any clues, but they were unhelpful as usual. The suggestion was to buy a new box, but all Freesat models are shown as out of stock. When I queried this, I was told that they no longer make Freesat boxes. I looked on eBay, and the prices reflect this; some are asking up to £400 for an HDR-1100S! What are they thinking?
I’ve ordered a used Foxsat HDR from eBay, while I work out what to do with the 1010S.
I am working on a Humax HDR-1000s at present. According to my notes, on one site a user reported that “The repair ticket before collection stated that the box needed a resistor change, showing that humax as some knowledge of the issue and repair centre confirmed this by changing a 120k resistor and returned the box after about a week.”
So that is the approach I am taking- but not yet identifed the relevant resistor…
But at least you know its value. Which is a lot better than the previous “It’s a resistor”.
Possibly. but given that resistors are not failure prone, it might be that the resistor was changed in value to correct the fault? In which case is 120k the original or the replacement value?
bmax – 32 mins ago »
Possibly. but given that resistors are not failure prone, it might be that the resistor was changed in value to correct the fault? In which case is 120k the original or the replacement value?
As many of the early units are still going strong I suspect a few batches that were out of spec.
Yes, I have heard that referred to, ie. Humax told people that the fault was a resistor going “out of spec”. Now all we need to to do is identify which one..
The 120kOhm one ;
Ho! Ho! 😆
Right- so using my mobile phone’s camera as a magnifying glass I have managed to map what SMD resistors I can and have then measured them. In the attached pictures the number in a ring is what is written on the resistor, accompanied by another, smaller, ringed number that indicates how many there are at that site. Then I have indicated the actual resistance measured with an equals sign. There seems to be only two 120K resistors in total as you can see on top of the board and both are reading about 5.5K. So these seem to be bad- but both going at the same time?
Measuring resistance value in circuit is not a great idea as yo cannot usually decide whether there is anything in parallel reducing the value. Having said that, I wouldn’t like to take them out to test. And surely a value of 123 is ’12’ with three zeros = 12k not 120k
Argh.. you’re right! Thought I was onto something then. Will now have to find the orginal comment that mentioned the 120K resistor as there does not seem to be one on the board.
Definitely 120K referred to at:
OK, so while I am doing this I thought I would check the capacitors. Getting some strange values for a number of these and now wondering if my (cheap) multimeter is working properly. By now you may have guessed that I am not an expert in electronics!
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