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My FVP-5000T sits on top of a hi-fi unit, exactly at eye level, and I can see right through, underneath. Unfortunately, this means I cannot see the LED indicator which, in a classic example of style over function, shines downwards onto the surface below. So I’ve cut a piece of white card, about 30mm long and 10mm wide, and taped it to the underside of the PVR. I’ve folded the last 10mm of the card downwards, at 45 degrees, so the LED reflects forwards. As the photos show, it’s very effective.
[attachment=61947,876] [attachment=61947,877]
My kit is on black glass (much lower than eye level) – but the same problem. I’ve put a sheet of white paper under the box. Your’s looks better.
Good idea. Wasn't it great when the Humax boxes had a clock on the front? This is my "fix" R-
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Reminds me of my current mobile phone wireless charger stand which has the status lights on the back where they cannot be seen from where I sit. My solution is to have my Harmony remote control charging stand next to it and slightly further back which reflects the lights in my direction.
RogerB – 2 days ago »
Good idea. Wasn't it great when the Humax boxes had a clock on the front? This is my "fix" R-
[attachment=61953,878]
Nice timer upgrade, though a bit over engineered? I’ll be glad to take the old PVR-9300T to the recycling centre, clock and all. Just waiting for HughieMom to clear it of Casualtys & Holbys. I might even dust the units, once it’s gone!
RogerB – 1 week ago »
Good idea. Wasn't it great when the Humax boxes had a clock on the front? This is my "fix" R-
[attachment=61953,878]
ROFL!
I put two of those slightly thicker felt pads you get for putting under the likes of ornaments etc to stop scratching, on each original corner front, It raises the front of the unit up slightly so you can see the duel LED and helps project the ‘glow’. You could also use a small piece of mosaic mirror tile to bounce the LED outwards.
It is weird that this box was designed and released with such a basic and obvious defect. Not only can this light not be seen but if you do manage to make it “seeable” the light when switched off and recording seems the same colour as when it is switched on, whether recording or not.
The question that this issue raises, is if this is the best they can do with the more obvious and avoidable “cosmetics” what hope is there for the more important features.
With my paper fix I see a red stripe when OFF, a blue stripe when ON and both red and blue stripes when OFF & REC. Without the paper fix the red and blue colours are designed to merge into magenta (or purple, as they call it).
Perhaps Humax should supply the box with a piece of paper and a set of instructions.
uk1 – 5 hours ago »
It is weird that this box was designed and released with such a basic and obvious defect. Not only can this light not be seen but if you do manage to make it “seeable” the light when switched off and recording seems the same colour as when it is switched on, whether recording or not.
The question that this issue raises, is if this is the best they can do with the more obvious and avoidable “cosmetics” what hope is there for the more important features.
It’s been that way since the HDR 2000T and has been the subject of bitter complaints since day 1. It demonstrates the point admirably that companies listen to their customers. 🙄
uk1 – 17 hours ago »
Perhaps Humax should supply the box with a piece of paper and a set of instructions.
How true! Or they could install a little fold-down plastic flap, or miniature roller-blind you could choose to deploy! 😆
Personally, I think it’s a cost-saving measure because the LEDs are included on the main circuit board and no fascia hardware is needed.
After several hours experimenting with acrylic light guides and prisms made of perspex I had to admit that HughieDad's paper solution is simple better and brilliant. However I have one more trick up my sleeve. A small scale prototype of this, using three very short "L" shaped lengths of 1mm plastic "fibre optic" light guide gives a bright display (see photo taken from ten feet away). When I eventually get 1mm acrylic sheet a 10mm wide "L" shaped piece of this will replace the present prototype.
I will let you know whether this is a success or failure!
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Following on yesterday's entry. 1mm acrylic and polycarbonate sheet arrived. Acrylic proved better for use as a light guide..
Cut 15mm strip and bent using hot air. Bending using near boiling was tricky. Acrylic tended to crack.
With both ends of the guide very finely sanded the display was clearly visible over a wide angle. Polishing both ends produced a smaller display which was sensitive to viewing angle although possibly slightly brighter. At the right angle it was possible to see both the blue and red separately when recording.
Polishing the LED end and very light sanding the viewed end gave the best result in my opinion. This gives a definite, but not outstanding, difference between blue (on) and purple (recording).
Was all the effort worth it? I think so. Whilst the result is only a bit better than HughieDad's paper reflector it is less vulnerable.
[attachment=71097,1208] [attachment=71097,1209] [attachment=71097,1210] [attachment=71097,1211]
Brilliant in every sense of the word! Sometimes bodgology needs proper physics.
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