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HDR 1000S box completely dead.
Display not illuminated although on one occasion showed “Starting”
LED also only lit on one occasion
PSU shows 12v when measured in the box at rear of connector.
Heat sink gets quite hot
No volts on the HDD 4 pin connector on the PCB (with drive unplugged)
(presumably the black wires are ground and the red and yellow are 12v and 5v ?
When Seagate drive disconnected (both plugs) Humax still seems dead.
There is 5v on the front panel PCB connector
The on/off button has about 3.5v across it.
Any thoughts to help identify the fault would be most welcome
Check the voltage between pins 1 & 4 of BBS port – should be 3.3V and pins 1 & 4 of UART port – should be 5V.
Very many thanks for your response kacout
When powered up, the front panel display showed STARTING and this stayed on.
The voltage between pins 1 & 4 on the BBS was 3.28 V
That between 1 & 4 of both UARTS was 5.09 V
When I powered it up again later, there was nothing on the display.
I checked the voltage on the USB connector on the front panel and that was 4.5 V. There was 0 volts on the inners of the two Type F coax connectors. Presumably they should both have showed something between 13 and 19 Volts for the LNB ?
What can be deduced from the above and the previous checks ?
Do you have a circuit diagram or block diagram for this model ?
No problem on response.
BBS & UART voltages are as expected and you are correct with LNB voltages. I’m afraid I have neither a circuit diagram or block diagram.
The fact that heatsink is getting hot means that controller is working, just not doing the correct thing. These units are well known for some of the connections between the die and the substrate going open circuit – similar to the old XBox issue, so it might be worth disconnecting everything from the PCB, remove the PCB from the unit and baking in a pre-heated oven @ 125C for 10 mins. Connect eveything back up and when you go to power it back on, press and hold the channel down button while applying power so that it performs a full reset – hopefully it will work.
Many thanks again for quick response and most helpful suggestion
It’s good to have some very knowledgeable people on this forum.
Would a controller problem explain the lack of voltage on the F connector and also on the hard drive?
Also the fan isn’t running. Is it temperature controlled?
Tried a resistance check but seems very high
Any idea what the resistance should measure between red and black ?
Will try the baking suggestion later
Yes if the controller does not startup correctly the board will not be initialised properly. Also the hard drive does not normally startup until after ‘Freesat’ logo is displayed on the screen/display. Fan is temperature dependant.
Let me know how you get on.
Thanks for the suggestions kacout.
It occurred to me that it might be easier to use a hot-air gun or hairdryer on the heatsink rather than taking it all apart and baking it in the oven.
I tried a hairdryer (1000W) just to check whether it would get the temperature up to 125C and it got up to 110C after a few minutes which seemed promising. (measuring with a Fluke IR thermometer)
When powered up afterwards it started working OK (without doing a reset) but failed again the following day.
I then temporarily suspended the hairdryer above the heatsink and it got up to about 130C after about 5 minutes or so and I left it running at that for about another 2 or 3 minutes.
It has been running OK for a couple of days now.
With the lid off the heatsink runs at about 55C
Even with the the lid on the fan doesn’t seem to cut in and the heat sink gets up to about 65C and the HDD about 35C
When should the fan cut in?
I checked the fan resistances and the black to red was about 4 meg ohms and black to white about 5.5 meg ohms. I tried another one and it measured the same.
Where is the temp sensor and is there any easy way to check its operation?
Many thanks
No problem.
That would also work and save you the strip down!
Sounds like it has been successfull!
I believe the temp sensor is in the controller (Broadcom chip), maybe if you heated it up with the hairdryer while in operation the fan might kick in?
kacout – 18 hours ago »
I believe the temp sensor is in the controller (Broadcom chip), maybe if you heated it up with the hairdryer while in operation the fan might kick in?
Several other Humax models use the temperature sensor in the hard drive.
I’m a bit wary about heating it up with the hairdryer when it’s operating, not knowing the max temperature it could stand.
I have checked the fan with an external 12v DC supply and it runs at a relatively slow speed and draws about 30 mA as opposed to the 110 mA
……..continued
….the 110 mA ……on the data sheet attached.
The white wire (rotation detect) not being used presumably explains the 30 mA
The DC resistance previously measured of about 4 meg ohm between the +ve and -ve fan connections presumably indicates active device(s) in the fan.
(The actual version of the AUB0512LB fitted is the BS12 but this data sheet was the nearest version I could find)
Should the fan cut in (with the box lid on) from time to time in normal operation when the ambient temperature in the room is a bit over 20C ?
Retired Eng – 3 hours ago »
Should the fan cut in (with the box lid on) from time to time in normal operation when the ambient temperature in the room is a bit over 20C ?
I am not a Freesat expert but on some other Humax Freeview boxes the fan doesn’t kick in until the temperature is 55 C.
Thanks Martin, is that an air temperature inside the box of 55C ?
Retired Eng – 6 hours ago »
Thanks Martin, is that an air temperature inside the box of 55C ?
In the cases I am familiar with, it is the temperature reported by the sensor in the hard drive.
An update on progress
It was working OK for a month or so after the hairdryer treatment but has now failed again. Same symptoms, 5V and 12V OK, Heatsink hot (58C), no display or standby LED,
Tried the hairdryer again, no success this time.
Any ideas?
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