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The splitter Graham recommended is certainly doing the job for me (he says with fingers tightly crossed) https://www.screwfix.com/p/labgear-19132r-s-2-way-metal-t-splitter/44534
I have just been running a signal test on channel 56 which is the worst performing of all the channels. It’s currently down as far as 36% signal strength (and has been all evening) but signal quality is 100%.
Faust – 9 hours ago »
The splitter Graham recommended is certainly doing the job for me (he says with fingers tightly crossed) https://www.screwfix.com/p/labgear-19132r-s-2-way-metal-t-splitter/44534
Did that splitter fit without needing any adapters?
Attached the current advert text from Screwfix.
Plug in to 2 sockets out. This is not suitable for the back of a 2000T.
[attachment=66334,995]
I don’t plug it straight into the back of the device. I plug it into the wall socket. It’s male into wall socket with two female outs.
I use two made up leads with male co-axial connectors on each end. This is the best results I have had to date. If you need female adapters then they only cost pence to buy. I think Graham posted a link in the other thread.
Johnh510 – 33 minutes ago »
Faust – 9 hours ago »
The splitter Graham recommended is certainly doing the job for me (he says with fingers tightly crossed) https://www.screwfix.com/p/labgear-19132r-s-2-way-metal-t-splitter/44534
Did that splitter fit without needing any adapters?
Attached the current advert text from Screwfix.
Plug in to 2 sockets out. This is not suitable for the back of a 2000T.
[attachment=66334,995]
The existing aerial lead to the Humax should be removed from the Humax and connected to the splitter in. The existing patch lead going to the TV is then removed from the Humax and connected to one of the outputs. A second patch lead connects from the other splitter out to the Humax rf in.
Quote:The existing aerial lead to the Humax should be removed from the Humax and connected to the splitter in. The existing patch lead going to the TV is then removed from the Humax and connected to one of the outputs. A second patch lead connects from the other splitter out to the Humax rf in.You can’t do that with the Screwfix splitter I bought. That splitter input is male, the aerial lead removed from the input of the humax is male, they don’t fit without an adaptor. The female outputs on that splitter don’t fit with the existing female in patch lead to the TV, or into the humax.
It’s an unsuitable splitter for this job.
Other splitters are available, and I have no affiliation with the people that sell them.
Johnh510 – 28 minutes ago »
Quote:The existing aerial lead to the Humax should be removed from the Humax and connected to the splitter in. The existing patch lead going to the TV is then removed from the Humax and connected to one of the outputs. A second patch lead connects from the other splitter out to the Humax rf in.You can’t do that with the Screwfix splitter I bought. That splitter input is male, the aerial lead removed from the input of the humax is male, they don’t fit without an adaptor. The female outputs on that splitter don’t fit with the existing female in patch lead to the TV, or into the humax.
It’s an unsuitable splitter for this job.
Other splitters are available, and I have no affiliation with the people that sell them.
The link which both Graham and I have provided is for an all metal body Labgear. The single end is ‘male’ the two outputs are ‘female’. I purchased one only yesterday. If you make up a couple of leads using at least RG59 cable with male connectors on either ends then you will have eliminated all potential weak spots. This arrangement will then plug into RF-in on your device and aerial in on your TV. You will no longer be using RF-out from the Humax.
If you do require a male to female adapter then you can buy them from Screwfix.
Johnh510 – 2 hours ago »
Quote:The existing aerial lead to the Humax should be removed from the Humax and connected to the splitter in. The existing patch lead going to the TV is then removed from the Humax and connected to one of the outputs. A second patch lead connects from the other splitter out to the Humax rf in.You can’t do that with the Screwfix splitter I bought. That splitter input is male, the aerial lead removed from the input of the humax is male, they don’t fit without an adaptor. The female outputs on that splitter don’t fit with the existing female in patch lead to the TV, or into the humax.
It’s an unsuitable splitter for this job.
Other splitters are available, and I have no affiliation with the people that sell them.
What’s wrong with an adapter ? I make all my interconnects with WF100 sat grade coax and terminate with f connectors, only using F to Belling Lee converters when needed. I have many splitters in my setup, all are F type. Avoids the HDMI interference issues you can get with cheap and nasty coax interconnects.
Quote:What’s wrong with an adapter ?It doesn’t connect without adapters.
You post here advising how to connect it up as if it connects without adapters.
The connector I found is metal boxed, and is no more a cheap and nasty interconnect than the screwfix one you recommend.
It’s labelled the same as the one from screwfix, but has the right connectors on it.
Enough.
Johnh510 – 3 minutes ago »
Quote:What’s wrong with an adapter ?It doesn’t connect without adapters.
You post here advising how to connect it up as if it connects without adapters.
The connector I found is metal boxed, and is no more a cheap and nasty interconnect than the screwfix one you recommend.
It’s labelled the same as the one from screwfix, but has the right connectors on it.
Enough.
But it appears to have a much higher insertion loss than it should. I just tried a splitter (f type) for you and it dropped the signal level 2% and had no effect on quality.
grahamlthompson – 1 hour ago »
Johnh510 – 2 hours ago »
Quote:The existing aerial lead to the Humax should be removed from the Humax and connected to the splitter in. The existing patch lead going to the TV is then removed from the Humax and connected to one of the outputs. A second patch lead connects from the other splitter out to the Humax rf in.You can’t do that with the Screwfix splitter I bought. That splitter input is male, the aerial lead removed from the input of the humax is male, they don’t fit without an adaptor. The female outputs on that splitter don’t fit with the existing female in patch lead to the TV, or into the humax.
It’s an unsuitable splitter for this job.
Other splitters are available, and I have no affiliation with the people that sell them.
What’s wrong with an adapter ? I make all my interconnects with WF100 sat grade coax and terminate with f connectors, only using F to Belling Lee converters when needed. I have many splitters in my setup, all are F type. Avoids the HDMI interference issues you can get with cheap and nasty coax interconnects.
I have considered F-connectors myself Graham (I actually have a packet full of them). However, the Labgear which you recommended (and I purchased) doesn’t have a threaded connection and neither does the Humax or my TV.
I realise you can purchase F-connector to co-ax (Belling Lee) adaptors, though I remain to be convinced that there is much of an improvement in doing this, vis-à-vis using decent co-ax connectors – I use Labgear with my cable. After all the termination which pushes into the device is still Belling Lee.
Faust – 3 hours ago »
grahamlthompson – 1 hour ago »
Johnh510 – 2 hours ago »
Quote:The existing aerial lead to the Humax should be removed from the Humax and connected to the splitter in. The existing patch lead going to the TV is then removed from the Humax and connected to one of the outputs. A second patch lead connects from the other splitter out to the Humax rf in.You can’t do that with the Screwfix splitter I bought. That splitter input is male, the aerial lead removed from the input of the humax is male, they don’t fit without an adaptor. The female outputs on that splitter don’t fit with the existing female in patch lead to the TV, or into the humax.
It’s an unsuitable splitter for this job.
Other splitters are available, and I have no affiliation with the people that sell them.
What’s wrong with an adapter ? I make all my interconnects with WF100 sat grade coax and terminate with f connectors, only using F to Belling Lee converters when needed. I have many splitters in my setup, all are F type. Avoids the HDMI interference issues you can get with cheap and nasty coax interconnects.
I have considered F-connectors myself Graham (I actually have a packet full of them). However, the Labgear which you recommended (and I purchased) doesn’t have a threaded connection and neither does the Humax or my TV.
I realise you can purchase F-connector to co-ax (Belling Lee) adaptors, though I remain to be convinced that there is much of an improvement in doing this, vis-à-vis using decent co-ax connectors – I use Labgear with my cable. After all the termination which pushes into the device is still Belling Lee.
Screwfix sell f type splitters. I only linked the Belling Lee one as in the past I find it tends to confuse those who have never used f connectors. Belling Lee plugs should be soldered for reliable connections, f connectors are much easier to make good connections.
Following your advice Graham re: using F-connectors for the TV/PVR I decided to bite the bullet and start again.
I already had the F-connectors and enough WF-100 cable. The only thing missing was the F-connector to male coax adaptors. Luckily our trusty local Screwfix had just the job – https://www.screwfix.com/p/labgear-f-to-coax-plugs-pack-of-10/39772?tc=BA3&ds_kid=92700024374094231&ds_rl=1248154&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1247848&gclid=Cj0KCQjw28_XBRDhARIsAEk21FisXFyBztVK_-V6ZetPsM1JuThqII5CWm16zYj1NWi4FU4hEYUfHKYaAv0kEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CIHJ4q2q-9oCFSsh0wodRo8P-w
It didn’t take me long to make up the new cables and I remembered to check the signal strength on the two weakest channels before I plugged in the new cables i.e. channels 55 & 56.
Whilst the signal strength has only gone up a few percentage points the signal quality has showed a marked improvement. Channel 56 was showing 32% strength and 84% quality just before I plugged in the replacement cables. The new reading (again channel 56) is now 38% strength but quality has shot up to 100%.
All muxes are now returning a value of 100% signal quality, which I suppose demonstrates Graham’s assertion that F-connectors provide better performance than the old style coax connectors.
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